24″ Bosch Micro Edge Excel
24″ Valeo
24″ Bosch Icon
26″ Bosch Icon 426A
![j0810005[1]](http://www.z-car.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/j08100051.gif "j0810005[1]")
Stant 11511 – This is a replacement for the OEM gas cap
It’s very easy to tap the (amplified) ABS wheel speeds in the cable harness that runs next to the shifter
unscrew the tunnel by the gear stick,
lift the plastic as far as you can,
open out the shroud surrounding the cables there,
find the light green wires described & pictured elsewhere.
You need only hook up to one – I chose the light green / pink.
use a soldering iron to melt the insulation a bit and attach a wire to it
take this wire to the stereo (tricky this bit – my route was convoluted – under the floor carpet, along the side carpet, up the footwellin behind the dash on the drivers side, behind the dash (took the instrument pod off) to the radio)
hook it up to the speed sense pin – was labelled in my Blaupunkt manual.
In the wiring harness there are green and light green wires. The difference is fairly subtle in color. Make sure you get the right one! The four wires from the ECU to the ABS computer are light green with red (marked LGR in the wiring diagram), light green with yellow (LGY), light green with pink (LGK) and light green with gray (LGS). I also found a solid light green wire, no idea what that one is for. Don’t use it 
Also filed in DIY
|
Tagged ABS, Blaupunkt, blaupunkt manual, cable harness, ecu, Elise, Lotus, radio, stereo, vss, wiring harness
|
This is a copy of the Lotus Elise engine manual for the Toyota 2ZZ-GE engine.
Lotus Elise
Toyota Engine Repair Manual
2ZZ-GE
Tuesday, February 3, 2009
What happens when you take your Lotus to a garage that does not know what they are doing.
Tuesday, January 13, 2009
For all you lazy people here is the parts list:
For the Sands mod (if you only do one this is it)http://www.sandsmuseum.com/cars/elis…ace/index.html
Follow their install instructions / photos included
Purchased at Ace Hardwhere: cost $2.19
Bronze bushing
made by Jandorf
part# 90770
I.D 1/2″
O.D 11/16″
L 1 1/8″
Bolt needed: (same tread size as bolts holding down seat, just different length), also get a nice flat washer as well and use locktite
Bolt: M8 x 50 / 1.25 pitch
For the Sector 111 mod, i did not drill out the drivers side hole as i did not feel it was needed (and one less hole in the car) I however drilled out the passanger side which was empty and inserted a bolt up from the bottom of the car with a 2″ washer (stainless with silecone) and put a self locking nut on top.
http://sector111.com/images/products…structions.pdf
Feels like a new car…really
Saturday, January 3, 2009
Those of us that track the car really focus on the handling aspects of the car. By introducing more negative camber (camber is the list of the wheels. Negative is when the tops are closer to each other than the bottoms) we get more contact patch in the corners which gives more grip which improves handling which allows great corner exit speed which means faster speeds down the striaghts which in turn results in faster lap times.
It has the added benefit of increasing tire life for tracked cars because it spreads the wear over the entire surface of the tire rather than allowing the wear to occur mostly on the outside edges.
Socket with an allen head tip on a 3/8 drive ratchet with a longish handle. The rear bolt has to come out all the way and the front can just be loosened when playing around Since the shims have a through hole in the back but a slide out on the front. Loctite is important here when you wrap things up.
Up front my car has one 3 mm thick shim, one 1 mm thick shim and one 1 mm thick shim / ABS bracket. So that is 5 mm of shims. Looks like I should be able to hit in the vicinity of -1.4 to -1.7 maxed out.
Warning: if you are removing shims, make sure to remove each bolt, clean, use medium strength thread locker, and torque to proper settings.
I’ve seen talk of “oh, just loosen the bolts, you only need to remove the rear bolt because the shim is slotted in front.” WRONG! Once a bolt is loosened, the bond of the thread locker has been destroyed. The thread locker must be re-applied after the bolt has been cleaned, and the bolt must be re torqued. Skipping this step is asking for disaster.
There are two variants of the bolts: one was a grade 8.x and the other a grade 9.x. Depending on which bolts you have, the torque requirement is different. Make sure you use the correct torque! This is serious business.
Blue loctite when they refasten!
